(4) Local Politics or: 'I thought you were going to Morocco'

The conversation might go something like this:

‘Daklha? Isn’t that the place in Africa they go to on that big rally?’

‘No, you’re thinking of Dakar, in Senegal’

‘Oh, so where is Dakhla then?’

‘It’s in Africa too, but in Western Sahara’

‘In the western Sahara? I see. But in which country is it?’

‘Not the western Sahara, but Western Sahara...’

And this is where the conversation gets more complicated. Originally a Spanish territory, when the Spaniards pulled out of Western Sahara in the 1970s both Morocco to the north and Mauritania to the south annexed parts of the country on the basis of historical claims. Although the Moroccans eventually drove the Mauritanians out there remained (and remains) the thorny problem of an indigenous third party who sought independence notwithstanding the other claims. Today the legal status of the territory and sovereignty remains unresolved and it is considered by the United Nations as a ‘non self-governed territory’ (any ideas what that means anyone?) but as part of Morocco by the Moroccans.

There are a few consequences of this little spat. Firstly, we can expect quite a few Moroccan check points as we travel through Western Sahara (or the Moroccan Southern Provinces as they like to call the territory). Secondly, we best not let them see our maps at the check points since these show the region as Western Sahara; they would get upset and the maps would be confiscated. We also need to keep on the main roads in the southern parts of Western Sahara due to the liberal use of landmines in that area during the conflict between Mauritania and Morocco. It is the same reason why you should get a guide to take you across the five miles of no-man’s land on the border between the two countries should you wish to cross into Mauritania. Don’t worry though; we do not plan to do that.